dankoreproductions's Photobucket Shaker Installation album media

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:19:00 MST

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26. If you do a clean job, it can turn out like this, The trim ring can be painted body color and blended right in without the need to paint the entire hood.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:18:53 MST

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25. Last step is to carfully cut around the trim ring with a razor blade, and peel off the masking tape. Once finished, you can apply a small bead of paintable ureathane seam sealer on the seam.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:18:49 MST

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24. Next, if you choose, you can finish the bottom seam with bondo or duraglass putty. This is not necessary but does give it a more finished look on the bottom.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:18:45 MST

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23. To give the most time, you can chill the 2 tubes of flexible epoxy adhesive in the fridge. Next, after installing them in both caulking guns, use a black marker and put marks every 1/2 inch on the rods. This will allow you to measure and dispense exactly the same amount of each side. Dispense about 1/2 each tube, mix thoroughly, and apply generously with provided squeegy. Work quickly, as you only have about 10 minutes before it begins to slowly stiffen. (A helper in handy in this step) You should then clamp it down as pictured and make sure it is within the lines and down all the way. after an hour, it should be hard enough to remove the clamps.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:18:40 MST

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22. Test fit the trim ring. You may need to do a little sanding, but generally they are almost perfectly grinded and pre-scuffed on the bottom side. Once happy with the centered fit, draw a dark pen mark around the trim ring. With an sharp blade, cut on the line and remove the inside portion of masking tape, then scuff or grind off the paint with a 3" grinder to make a good bond.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:16:39 MST

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21. Next, use some more urethane adhesive to fill the gap between the hood and brace. This will not only make the hood stronger, but will keep the epoxy trim ring adhesive from squashing out on the inside. You MUST let this adhesive dry overnight, or your hood skin will get pushed in out of place in when trying to clamp the trim ring down in the next step.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:16:07 MST

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20. Screw down the bottom brace with the 16 provided self drilling #8 screws. 6 go in the front, 6 in the back, and 2 in the middle on each side. The holes are pre-marked in the fiberglass. Later, you can remove the screws and install smoothe 1/8" pop rivits and paint them, you won't even notice them. Clean up the adhesive if needed with Naptha or Mineral Spirits. Next, cut the factory insulation down to fit with scissors or snips, and re-install with the push pins. Be careful, the insulation has sharp foil inside, and can give a nasty cut. (no pic on that one - ouch)

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:16:03 MST

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19. Using some urethane one part construction adhesive, thoroughly cover the areas that will be in contact with the bottom brace.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:15:11 MST

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18. Now take your grinder or 40 sandpaper, and scuff the paint so the adhesive will make a good bond.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:15:07 MST

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17. This is what it looks like from the top. The flange you see is the bottom brace area that bonds to the upper trim ring with the epoxy adhesive. This ties everything together for a super strong and stiff hood.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:15:03 MST

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16. The bottom brace should fit right in nice and tight. If it doesn't, grind the areas that need it until it fits snugly.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:14:07 MST

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15. You can remove rough edges and fine tune th fit with one of these 90 degree grinders with a 3" 36 or 50 grit roloc pad.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:14:03 MST

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14. Here it is! save the center piece for the paint shop to match the paint on.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:13:59 MST

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13. Make sure the hood is propped up on the sides and start cutting. I cut this entire hole in about 2 minutes. A good jigsaw with these blades will melt through these hoods like butter, through all the braces in one shot!

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:13:24 MST

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12. Set your jigsaw so it will cut at about a 5 degree angle like this, so the bottom hole will be slightly larger than the top.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:13:21 MST

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11. Next, go get yourself a good jigsaw and these blades. They are both sold at Home Depot. The blades are Bosch T345XF3 and they MUST be 6" long.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:13:16 MST

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10. Using a 1/2" or larger hole saw, take a deep breath and saw the first hole in this general area. Be careful to stay in the line!

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:12:49 MST

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9. Cover the area to be cut with 2" masking tape and redraw the lines. You will able to see through the tape. This will protect the paint from the jigsaw action to come.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:12:45 MST

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8. Remove the template, and this is what it should look like.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:12:42 MST

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7. Using a pen, mark the hood where the center hole will be cut out.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:12:11 MST

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6. Stretch out pattern and tape on in a wagon wheel pattern. Make sure you stretch it tight, the center line is centered, and the squirter align in the holes.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:12:07 MST

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5. Using scissors, cut on template on the lines, including squirter holes.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:12:04 MST

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4. Next, 2" masking tape is put on the areas to mark on the hood. Mark the center line of the hood by measuring as on the diagram, then replace the squirters. Do NOT trust your eyes on this part. If the light source in not directly centered above, it will throw you completely off and look NOT centered when it is or vice versa.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:11:36 MST

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3. These measurements are for the Magnum hood. This template will also work with the Charger hood, but you must disregard the front and side edges of the template. Establish the center by measuring and go only by the center line, rear edge and squirter locations.

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:11:34 MST

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2. Flip the hood upside down and remove the squirter with pliers

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dankoreproductions — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 20:11:30 MST

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1. Here is a great source for all those considering this Mod. I took the liberty of taking pics while performing this conversion for SRT-BILL. Soon I will install it on his SRT8 Magnum and have it painted black. Enjoy! This is the stock donor hood from a Magnum, for the Charger it is the same exact process.